At Turtle Inn in Nikko: this is Frederic´s favourite activity

NIKKO - the big and small

MATSUSHIMA - One of Japan´s 3 most beautiful places ...

We arrived in the early afternoon - after having crossed Japan from west to east coast. The beauty of the scenery called for a proper lodging. Also, the Youth Hostel was full. Yes, at 39,000 Yen it was a bit expensive - but a ten course dinner and and breakfast was included - a private onsen bath - and a corner tatami bedroom with panomaric views of the islands. Who can remember the crowded youth hostels?

We can upload pictures again :-)

For several days we have had trouble uploading pictures. Now everything works smoothly again. For how long?

DEWA-SAN: Birth - Death - Rebirth - in 3 days

The priest spoke very slowly. Every two minutes he asked Frederic to translate for me. It was a tale - not only about the red-clothed skeleton munk sitting right in front of us - but about how Dewa-san had been a one of the most holy places in Japan for centuries.

On the first day, we climbed the 2440 steps to the top of the mountain of birth: Hagura-san. On the second day we reached Sansan at 1980 meters - the mountain of death. But would we make it to the third top: rebirth at Yodo-san?

A terrible thunderstorm was approaching, and miraculously the rain had stopped just long enough for us to visit the small Dainichibou temple - with the now mummified Daijuku Bosatsu Shinnyokai Shonin. He was sitting right in front of us - draped in a beatifully red cloth. And the Shinto priest told Frederic all about the life he had lived before he died in 1782. How he worked for buddhism, helped the townspeople, lived himself only on nuts and garlic, and finally at the age of 96 - had stopped eating altogether - and let himself be buried alive - breathing through a straw till he died.

Frederic finally received a small gift: a charm containing a bit of the mummy`s clothing (they change him now and then and produce health charms from the cloth). We donated 1000 Yen to the temple. Then we ventured back out into the rain - and went in search of a place to spend the night - the thunder was getting very close indeed.

We must find a place to sleep in this area.

We cannot leave Dewa-san without visitíng the mountain of rebirth first.

Pictures from Sado

The Youth Hostel was "basic" - but idyllic - on the top of the hill overlooking the Ogi town.

We are off to see the Yamabushi!

Tomorrow we will head off to the mountains to see the yamabushi. If no more entries appear here - you will know where to look...

By the way, we are having trouble uploading new pictures - hope to resolve this soon.

My Greatest Japanese Surprises

What has surprised me the most in Japan? Not yet in order of importance, they are:
1. TIME. In two dimensions: Everything is on time! Europe - learn! And: The co-existence of an ancient and ultra-modern culture. That this high-tech robotic-age society co-exists with the still active yamabushi. It seems to me that people in my country, Denmark, are at most 30 years apart. Here, I sense that cohabitation spans centuries.

2. TOILETS. The past-future co-existence is witnessed in the daily choice a traveller is asked to make between "whole-in-the-ground" versus virtually computerized equipment in the restrooms. I am a qualified user of squatter toilets in Africa and Asia - but here I have to learn to to choose the right heating of my toilet seat (sometimes clothed), choose my rinse (male or female anatomy?), accept or decline blow-drying... add to that the option to engage a "noise-box" which will quell those of my body....
3. TRAINING. The Japanese workforce has a higher average educational level than that of Denmark! (let me get back with some statistics on this). It astonishes me in the daily interaction here: in the rural areas, buildings and landscape remind me of Thailand or Indonesia - but the people I meet in the bus work in biotechnology labs - and 9 out of 10 are engineers...
4. TIGHTNESS. If you read this - and you are in a large room or in a garden - treasure it. You cannot imagine how this country - short of space - has managed to reduce everything into minute spaces. Hotel rooms for two at 12 m2? Restaurants catering to 20 people - within... 20 m2? It is done with finesse and high quality - but where can you do your yoga sun salutations if there is never 2,2 meters x 1 meter available floor space? And - I have always believed that creative thinking rlotequires physical space - if this is true - then what happens if everything is in miniature?
5. THOUSANDS OF SMALL DIFFERENCES:
- no tipping: If I leave something for a waiter, he will come running after me: "You forgot your change...". - lots of bowing: and it is contagious - I have begun to bow...
- the almost identical way which staff in restaurants, hotels and shops calculate your price using a handheld calculator and return your change. This must be 100% trained in school. My explanation: Efficiency: Though slightly slower this process produces a 100% correct result in all cases.
- Public shared bathrooms - where 2-4-6-8-20 people can shower simultaneously sitting on small plastic stools - before entering the onsen (hot bath = spa). My explanation: effective space/time utilization.
- Biking takes place on the sidewalk. Even on crowded sidewalks. I still get a small shock when a bicycle suddenly weaves past at surprising speed. My explanation: biking on sidewalks - though hazardous - is still safer than on the narrow streets.
- Feeling for interhuman distance is different. When walking, standing in line, moving up escalators I must be careful when I turn around. Chances are that I may hit/touch the person behind me - because he/she is much closer than I am used to. My explanation: higher population density has resulted in a shorter "safety-distance".
- Shops can be stacked vertically! In Denmark a second floor shop will have no customers. In Japan I find shops stacked vertically on 3,6,9 floors. Clear signs (in japanese) present the options - but apparently japanese have less problems climbing stairs or elevators than we.
- Train stations and their surroundings can be attractive dining, entertainment and shopping areas. Initially, I would always venture away from the train station area to find a good restaurant here. Wrong. Look no further than the surroundings. Lots of choice and quality - and some cities have actually created quite a pleasant atmosphere around the station.

Kudo Rules

Sado Island: this is where criminals, heretics and those out-of-favour were interred. Today - it is still remote - but nevertheless accessible.

We had three consecutive days of concerts. This was like a micro Roskilde Festival - 2000 people instead of 100.000. Great music. Teiko drums!