What has surprised me the most in Japan? Not yet in order of importance, they are: 1. TIME. In two dimensions: Everything is on time! Europe - learn! And: The co-existence of an ancient and ultra-modern culture. That this high-tech robotic-age society co-exists with the still active yamabushi. It seems to me that people in my country, Denmark, are at most 30 years apart. Here, I sense that cohabitation spans centuries.
2. TOILETS. The past-future co-existence is witnessed in the daily choice a traveller is asked to make between "whole-in-the-ground" versus virtually computerized equipment in the restrooms. I am a qualified user of squatter toilets in Africa and Asia - but here I have to learn to to choose the right heating of my toilet seat (sometimes clothed), choose my rinse (male or female anatomy?), accept or decline blow-drying... add to that the option to engage a "noise-box" which will quell those of my body....
3. TRAINING. The Japanese workforce has a higher average educational level than that of Denmark! (let me get back with some statistics on this). It astonishes me in the daily interaction here: in the rural areas, buildings and landscape remind me of Thailand or Indonesia - but the people I meet in the bus work in biotechnology labs - and 9 out of 10 are engineers...
4. TIGHTNESS. If you read this - and you are in a large room or in a garden - treasure it. You cannot imagine how this country - short of space - has managed to reduce everything into minute spaces. Hotel rooms for two at 12 m2? Restaurants catering to 20 people - within... 20 m2? It is done with finesse and high quality - but where can you do your yoga sun salutations if there is never 2,2 meters x 1 meter available floor space? And - I have always believed that creative thinking rlotequires physical space - if this is true - then what happens if everything is in miniature?
5. THOUSANDS OF SMALL DIFFERENCES:
- no tipping: If I leave something for a waiter, he will come running after me: "You forgot your change...". - lots of bowing: and it is contagious - I have begun to bow...
- the almost identical way which staff in restaurants, hotels and shops calculate your price using a handheld calculator and return your change. This must be 100% trained in school. My explanation: Efficiency: Though slightly slower this process produces a 100% correct result in all cases.
- Public shared bathrooms - where 2-4-6-8-20 people can shower simultaneously sitting on small plastic stools - before entering the onsen (hot bath = spa). My explanation: effective space/time utilization.
- Biking takes place on the sidewalk. Even on crowded sidewalks. I still get a small shock when a bicycle suddenly weaves past at surprising speed. My explanation: biking on sidewalks - though hazardous - is still safer than on the narrow streets.
- Feeling for interhuman distance is different. When walking, standing in line, moving up escalators I must be careful when I turn around. Chances are that I may hit/touch the person behind me - because he/she is much closer than I am used to. My explanation: higher population density has resulted in a shorter "safety-distance".
- Shops can be stacked vertically! In Denmark a second floor shop will have no customers. In Japan I find shops stacked vertically on 3,6,9 floors. Clear signs (in japanese) present the options - but apparently japanese have less problems climbing stairs or elevators than we.
- Train stations and their surroundings can be attractive dining, entertainment and shopping areas. Initially, I would always venture away from the train station area to find a good restaurant here. Wrong. Look no further than the surroundings. Lots of choice and quality - and some cities have actually created quite a pleasant atmosphere around the station.
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