Saturday, September 13, 2008

Reflections on religion - Shinto


Frederic is sightseing in Kyoto today with Marina from Fukuoka. More about her later...

I will use the time to share reflections on the japanese religion Shinto.

Please comment on this article…!

On this trip we have visited numerous beautiful temples and shrines – said many prayers (why not?) – and bought quite a few amulets (see display in the picture) for health and happiness. We are tourists – but 98% of the visitors to these shrines are Japanese. Naturally, I have started reflecting on religion in Japan.

Before venturing into this topic, I have to declare my ignorance and humility. My sources are the web, guidebooks, people I meet, the temples I have visitied - and an audiobook on Shinto which I downloaded (satisfyingly read by Ben Kingsley - recommended.): Shinto & Japanese New Religions.

REFLECTIONS:
============
First surprise: Shinto - here is a religion which is important to 80 million people – but unknown to me. How can I be so uninformed? This is a typical example of the richness of this insular culture to a traveller: the differences are not miniscule with what you know already - they are huge.

Second surprise: Shinto - here is religion which is pagan and polytheistic (ten thousand Gods or more - and not all kind!,). I learned in school that such a religion is primitive – but here it commands respect in a highly developed society - and plays a healthy role in peoples life (see argument below). Obviously, my childhood learning is incorrect. Here is a picture that comes to mind: Big religions, countries and big companies have big bosses (Catholicism/Pope, USA/Bush, Microsoft/Gates). But that does not mean that big is the only answer. Small is beautiful?

Third surprise: Shinto - the history of Shinto is a history of Japan. Notice these nuggets:
1 - Did not have a name until 500 DC when Buddhism arrived in Japan after a 1000 year trip from India. The term Shinto was coined to distinguish between the old and the new religion.
2 - Co-existed nicely with Buddhism for centuries
3 - Was not pressured too much by Christianity which was simply banned for 300 years from around 1612 - 1873! (only 1% of Japanese are Christians today).
4 - Was separated from Buddhist influences during the period 1868-1945 when Shinto was made a state religion
5 - Was separated in 1945 from the state by the American occupation in 1945 - and the Ministry of Religious Affairs changed into the Association of Shinto Shrines.

Why do I say that Shinto seems to play a healthy role?
I have three observations:
1 - Visiting a shrine (there are more than 80.000) gives you a healthy break: whether big or small, each shrine is a sanctuary of peace - with trees, shade and often water. Not bad in a busy life.
2 - Some shrines require you to exercise! Temples in the mountains often require fairly arduous climbs up many stairs. Is this one explanation for the long lifespan here? Not much exercise in visiting a Christian church.
3 - At each temple you rinse your hands and mouth - and make a short prayer. Research starts to indicate that prayers work – I will not judge on whether this is because they are heard – or just because they are stated. To support the latter argument: Management thinking highlights that being absolutely clear on your top most goals, is a requirement for reaching them. If you practise Shinto it seems to me that you constantly have to express your goals/prayers.

In conclusion – I have quite come to like Shinto – which I am told means “the way of the Gods” – and the purpose of which is to live in harmony with the Gods.

More on Shinto.

Friday, September 12, 2008

Visit to Nara


A gorgeous temple - photo from the outside - and video from inside.





Kyoto - full of tourists. No Danes?








We have arrived in wonderful Kyoto - with all the temples and all the tourists. Staying at Ks House - which is packed - there is lots of opportunity to share experiences.

I had expected to meet at least some Danes. But no. Since we arrived in Japan 50 days ago, we have met one Norwegian, two finns and a few Swedes.

But Kyoto overwhelms you: too much to see. A fabulous modern train station - and century old temples in laquer and gold.































Omi-Maiko - a swim and a lesson: the Japanese holidays are over!


It is so hot! Where can we swim?


On the west side of Japan´s largest fresh water lake - Biwa-ko - is the small town and beach Omi-Maiko. We arrived in early afternoon.



The beach and the water was lovely, but all hotels and restaurants were closed! The Japanese holidays are over. We did not expect the closure to be so complete, because the weather is still very hot.



But we found a very small restaurant open - and the nice owners helped us find lodging for the night.

Kanazawa

The guidebooks say: do not skip Kanazawa.

What is here? Well, another fabulous train station (wait till you see Kyoto though - that takes the price).

And a fabulous museum - the Kanazawa 21st Century Museum of Contemporary Art. If you click on the link you will see one of the exhibits which can make an art museum fun to visit!




And a (another) famous japanese garden - Kenrokuen. But this one is one of the three most famous and beautiful, they say.







And living geisha in geisha city quarters - and memories of samurai in samurai city quarters.


And many small bars and restaurants that seem as they have looked the same for 300 years.

Again I have this very strong feeling of the future and the past living concurrently in Japan.



Over the mountains

Nagano

Matsumoto

Monday, September 8, 2008

Thank you Tonami-san



On Thursday 4th of September it was time to say goodbye to Tonami-san. It is early morning and he is ready to board the bus for a 4,5 hour drive to Tokyo - but before he left, we were invited to have dinner at his house in Tokyo at the end of October.


After saying goodbye, I again borrowed a mountain-bike from the hotel. I wish I had a mountain at home.

Cosy or scary?



This house was across the street from our lodging in Hakuba.
Frederic took the pictures one minute apart!

And we made new friends again





Lots of good local advice and insight was received from new friends - David and his wife - and two wonderful children. This picture is from the very special organic French/Italian/Japanese restaurant "Gravity Worx".

Kayaking in Hakuba - less frigthening than canyoning




We spent an afternoon on a beautiful lake in kayaks.
A first for Tonami-san - but just as with canyoning, he was immediately an expert.