Saturday, October 18, 2008

The Southernmost Point of Japan: HATERUMA-JIMA

The guidebook had warned that Hateruma-Jima had nothing much to offer.

The guidebook is wrong.

The southernmost point of Japan has exactly that "end-of-the-world" feeling to it, that makes it an adventure to visit.

True, the rest of the island is mostly sugarcane fields - but the south coast is made of barren volcanic cliffs constantly hammered by ferocious waves. The cliffs, however, stand firm - and the fields are well protected.

Thus, Hateruma-Jima becomes to me a symbol of how Japan has been able to protect its culture from foreign influences.

On our 3500 km travels from Soya Misaki in the north to Hateruma-Jima in the south, we have come to love the people and nature of Japan. We know that we have only scratched the surface of the culture, but everywhere we have been allowed to peak through, we have discovered a sophisticated and self contained culture and philosophical basis very different from our own.

I am sure that one reason for the great difference is that christianity has not had much influence here. After initial missionary work by Portuguese and Spainards in the 14-15th century, christianity was outlawed for 300 years - and today only 1% of japanese are christians. Thus the philosophy inherent in christianity has not affected japanese thinking very much.

Another reason is the richness of Japan: the islands have been able to feed a very large population - and it has been self sufficient in almost all areas - limiting trade mainly to luxuries. The large population has enabled cultural growth.

Today, Japan is obviously interacting more and more with the rest of the world. But it will remain a jewel of uniqueness to the visitor for a long time. The jewel is encased in an oyster shell and somewhat difficult to open - but worth the effort.






Friday, October 17, 2008

Iriomote - Jungle Island

We got up very early and got on the boat to Iriomote - our second last stop.

Iriomote is very different from the other islands we have visited.

90% of the mountaneous island is covered by dense jungle. The rivershores a mesh of wild mangrove forest. Definitely a treasure island.

Apparently not mapped until a hundred years ago - and until mid 1900 very unwelcoming due to malaria.












But 2008 is different.

We decided to sail up the river and then trek up to some famous waterfalls. A hot but satisfying trip.



















Later, we enjoyed probably the best of our lodgings in Okinawa - beautiful view and peace and quiet.



















Thursday, October 16, 2008

Shiisa will protect your house




In Okinawa it has been custom for 500 years to put a small lion-like figure on your roof - to protect your home.


On our trip around Ishigaki, we found an artist who expanded on the idea...


100 KM Further South: ISHIGAKI

We had a great plan: take advantage of the expensive but early arrival by plane and hit the ground running! We would immediately rent a small car, leave the main city and start exploring the subtropical island.



This plan did not take the weekday into account. It was Friday - and many japanese young travellers had arrived with the same plan. One difference: they had booked their car in advance!




Suffering a bit in the midday heat, visiting all the rental agencies, we found a car which would be ready by 3 pm. Spare time? Frederic spent the time learning how to play the Sanshin - the teacher: a local café owner. Here is a sound example.















I still wonder how Frederic learned to read the music - look at it: does it make any sense?



















By 3 pm we were rubber-borne and on our way north to beautiful Kabira Bay.


Wednesday, October 15, 2008

What? NO FERRY? Are we stuck here?



The confusion started in the airport, continued in the taxi and finally on the harbour itself it dawned upon us: THERE IS NO FERRY OUT OF HERE!




So carefully planned: we would fly from Okinawa to Miyako Jima - then sail for 5-6 hours to Ishigaki to explore the third group of islands - the YAEYAMA ISLANDS.




But the boats mentioned in the guide book had stopped sailing in April! From now on you can only move sourth by airplane...


You learn from your mistakes.


We paid the 24000 yen for two tickes got on the plane and learned.


Financing Welfare...


Maintaing a welfare state is costly...




On Miyako-Jima we encountered this simple solution to taxation:


Anyone taller than the stone should pay tax!

MIYAKO JIMA - and a birthday celebration

Still beautiful weather. The weather gods remain friendly - no typhons...yet.



On 8th of October we moved south again from Okinawa to explore the second group of islands in Okinawa: the Miyako Islands.



Thanks to Star Alliance, we can do some of the island hopping by plane. Star Alliance has a great deal: buy up to five domestic flights for only 100 USD each - but you must purchase before arriving in Japan. Read about it here.




On my birthday 9th of October, we forgot all about our trekking boots, rented a car and circled the island. It turned out that the island has numerous golf resorts as the one in the picture.




We also discovered a surprisingly Disneyland like german themepark complete with a copy of the Marksburg castle in Germany!

How does a small japanese island develop kinship with Germany?

The story: In 1873 the islanders saved sailors from a german ship wrecked by a nasty typhoon. Five years later Kaiser Wilhelm of Germany in appreciation gave a monument to the island - and thus the connection started...
























I ended my birthday on the Maehama beach - "by some called the best beach in Japan". (A sentence which we were to encounter on many islands....)