It is Sunday morning exactly two weeks after arrival. We are now on the tiny island of Rebun-to at the very north tip of Japan. The nature is fabulous and the hostel on the rugged west coast of the island is unique.
Under the huge “Peach-Stone” cliff, a group of young people are creating a world of their own. To underscore this, they have set Momoiwa-so time 30 minutes ahead of Japan Standard time…
The hostel building is on a cliff side with a stunning view of cliffs and breaking waves. It is constructed as a huge one room “village house” like those found in Java. The building is 2-3 stories tall and the nice wooden floor at the center must be at least 300 m2. A staircase leads up to maybe 60 bunks loacated at the second floor level – but still inside the same gigantic room. Smaller surrounding rooms and buildings comprise Japanese style sleeping areas, toilets and bath facilities. A dining room at the back seats 75 people on floor mats at long low tables.
The culture of Momoiwa-so is embodied in the 15 staff, who are actors in a 24 hour stage show. First act of the play is experienced already when the ferry arrives at the harbor in Rebun-to. Momoiwa-so staff are on the quay waving flags and greeting you with shouts of appreciation and welcome. They take your luggage in the van, and you may choose to walk the 1 hour stretch across the hills to the hostel on the west side of the island. When you arrive at Momoiwa-so all the staff gather and you get another flag waving and singing reception – which makes you feel good – but also completely baffled: “Do they really do this every day?”
The answer is yes. And in the evening the spectacle only grows. From 1900 to 2200 one side of the center floor in the building becomes a theatrical stage – and for three hours the staff tells stories, sing songs and act out plays – involving the 70-100 people in the audience in dialogue, singing and dancing.
Not understanding the language makes you miss the intellectual content – but anyone will understand the happiness and intensity. Also, forget about doing anything else. I tried to read for a while in my cot – but being in the same room I was soon attracted to the festivities.
And how does it all conclude? Having excited everyone, will they ever sleep? But yes. At exactly 22.15 Momoiwa time, a recording of an enticing and relaxing bed time lullaby is aired, and we are told to be in bed and lights out by 22.30. And behold – so it was.
In the evening we had signed up for the signature trek of Rebun-to. It is an 8 hour course which took the team 12 hours on the previous day. 32 km by foot from the north to south tip of the island. When we signed up, we were told that we would be transported to the north tip by bus – and then trek back: “Departure time is 6.10”. OK - that is not so bad. “But remember breakfast is important – please eat breakfast at 5.40”. That is early, but I can live with that. ”And that means we will wake you up at 5 a.m.” Hmm… this is moving in the wrong direction! “And, of course, that is Momoiwa time! – so it will be 4.30 on your watch.” Arrgh – pain! And I will not repeat Frederic`s reaction here.
But.
It was breathtaking nature all the way; up and down 2-300 m hills, frequent descents to small fishing villages on the beach, fried octopus here, fresh water there, back to the hill tops with adequate amounts of sweat, making me very delicious – by the time we reached forested areas – to the millions of horse flies residing there.
Wonderfully tired returning to the hostel around 6 pm – this or that time – we were greeted by staff standing on the roof! Shouting and singing and welcoming us home: a ceremony lasting some 30 minutes, including standing in line to be counted, singing and bowing.
At six 6am (5.30 Japan time) we are awoken to another piece of beautiful but energizing music. No lying around in bed all day here… Frederic managed however to sleep till 8 am.
I thought I had seen it all – but the climax – the most impressive spectacle of warmth and affection I experienced - was the sending off ritual: 40 minutes of saying good bye, where the staff was waving, singing and shouting in Japanese: “Itterasshai”… until the last person had turned the bend on the top of the road moving into the tunnel back to Japan!
Summary
In my (so far rather short) book on Japan, this experience deserves a *** - three stars using Michelin notation. Michelin says that * is worth a visit, ** is worth a detour, and *** is worth the journey”. My view: for someone studying Japanese and wanting to experience Japanese culture, language and youth close up, this is a must and a treat.
Under the huge “Peach-Stone” cliff, a group of young people are creating a world of their own. To underscore this, they have set Momoiwa-so time 30 minutes ahead of Japan Standard time…
The hostel building is on a cliff side with a stunning view of cliffs and breaking waves. It is constructed as a huge one room “village house” like those found in Java. The building is 2-3 stories tall and the nice wooden floor at the center must be at least 300 m2. A staircase leads up to maybe 60 bunks loacated at the second floor level – but still inside the same gigantic room. Smaller surrounding rooms and buildings comprise Japanese style sleeping areas, toilets and bath facilities. A dining room at the back seats 75 people on floor mats at long low tables.
The culture of Momoiwa-so is embodied in the 15 staff, who are actors in a 24 hour stage show. First act of the play is experienced already when the ferry arrives at the harbor in Rebun-to. Momoiwa-so staff are on the quay waving flags and greeting you with shouts of appreciation and welcome. They take your luggage in the van, and you may choose to walk the 1 hour stretch across the hills to the hostel on the west side of the island. When you arrive at Momoiwa-so all the staff gather and you get another flag waving and singing reception – which makes you feel good – but also completely baffled: “Do they really do this every day?”
The answer is yes. And in the evening the spectacle only grows. From 1900 to 2200 one side of the center floor in the building becomes a theatrical stage – and for three hours the staff tells stories, sing songs and act out plays – involving the 70-100 people in the audience in dialogue, singing and dancing.
Not understanding the language makes you miss the intellectual content – but anyone will understand the happiness and intensity. Also, forget about doing anything else. I tried to read for a while in my cot – but being in the same room I was soon attracted to the festivities.
And how does it all conclude? Having excited everyone, will they ever sleep? But yes. At exactly 22.15 Momoiwa time, a recording of an enticing and relaxing bed time lullaby is aired, and we are told to be in bed and lights out by 22.30. And behold – so it was.
In the evening we had signed up for the signature trek of Rebun-to. It is an 8 hour course which took the team 12 hours on the previous day. 32 km by foot from the north to south tip of the island. When we signed up, we were told that we would be transported to the north tip by bus – and then trek back: “Departure time is 6.10”. OK - that is not so bad. “But remember breakfast is important – please eat breakfast at 5.40”. That is early, but I can live with that. ”And that means we will wake you up at 5 a.m.” Hmm… this is moving in the wrong direction! “And, of course, that is Momoiwa time! – so it will be 4.30 on your watch.” Arrgh – pain! And I will not repeat Frederic`s reaction here.
But.
It was breathtaking nature all the way; up and down 2-300 m hills, frequent descents to small fishing villages on the beach, fried octopus here, fresh water there, back to the hill tops with adequate amounts of sweat, making me very delicious – by the time we reached forested areas – to the millions of horse flies residing there.
Wonderfully tired returning to the hostel around 6 pm – this or that time – we were greeted by staff standing on the roof! Shouting and singing and welcoming us home: a ceremony lasting some 30 minutes, including standing in line to be counted, singing and bowing.
At six 6am (5.30 Japan time) we are awoken to another piece of beautiful but energizing music. No lying around in bed all day here… Frederic managed however to sleep till 8 am.
I thought I had seen it all – but the climax – the most impressive spectacle of warmth and affection I experienced - was the sending off ritual: 40 minutes of saying good bye, where the staff was waving, singing and shouting in Japanese: “Itterasshai”… until the last person had turned the bend on the top of the road moving into the tunnel back to Japan!
Summary
In my (so far rather short) book on Japan, this experience deserves a *** - three stars using Michelin notation. Michelin says that * is worth a visit, ** is worth a detour, and *** is worth the journey”. My view: for someone studying Japanese and wanting to experience Japanese culture, language and youth close up, this is a must and a treat.
1 comment:
"miss the intellectual content"
I heard from one of the Japanese people there that even if you DO understand what they are saying, they make little sense ;)
Meanwhile I'm back in Tokyo and heading for Kyoto next, maybe. I don't know.
Have a good trip!
- Erik (from Momoiwaso)
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